воскресенье, 11 сентября 2011 г.

Fashion Month #2. GQ Man Of The Year Awards 2011.


As you know, in the fall menswear often appears on runaways as an addition to women's clothes. Moreover, there are lots of 100% menswear shows. However, in September public's attention is mainly drawn to womenswear. Is it even possible to argue about that?! Obviously, despite the fact that Scott Schuman dedicates his third in a row post to men's trousers hem that is in vogue this season, the world forgot about men's fashion for a moment (By the way, have you noticed how the style of the Sartorialist changed? It seems that Mr Schuman followed his own advice [yeah, the same one he had given to Garance many years ago] and started to rejoice our hearts with more text posts). But it's not that cardinal. For example, this year media gave an extremely thorough coverage to the 14th GQ Man Of The Year Awards 2011. Why this particular awards ceremony aroused such interest? Maybe because all the finest British men and a few wonderful men from over the pond were present on the red carpet of the Royal Opera House. Or maybe because of a dozen ridiculously famous women who attended the ceremony as well.
The event was sposored by Alfred Dunhill.

Tanqueray Most Stylish Man (Tanqueray is a brand of British gin) in a tailored suit by Thom Sweeney - Matt Smith. And his beautiful girlfriend Daisy Lowe beside him (dress by Jexica).

Designer of the Year - Tommy Hilfiger, who's celebrating 25 anniversary of his brand this September. By the way, his menswear collection was recently presented on New York Fashion week. You can see runaway photo here.

Actor of the Year - Benedict Cumberbatch - critics acclaimed his work on stage, viewers were deeply moved by his portraying of Sherlock Holmes in BBC TV-drama. Let's watch the video and learn no to write mean things on the Internet.

The title of Musician of the Year went to the head TV doctor Hugh Laurie for his first blues album 'Let them talk'. Definitely worth a listen! And now you can listen to the nice British speech delivered by Larie's best friend Stephen Fry.

The award Inspiration of the Year went to the collection of fashion-photographer Mario Testino who prepared a special previously unseen portfolio on this occasion. During 30 years of work he has collected a bunch of unique photos.
The award was presented by Mario's favourite actress-model Emma Watson.

Bill Nighy took home an award Editor's Choice.
*By the way, that Dylan everybody is thanking in videos is the Editor-in-Chief of British GQ Dylan Jones. As for GQ itself, it was founded in 1931 and its title at that time was Apprel Arts. The magazine's popularity allowed to found another famous magazine Esquire in 1933. Since 1957 GQ became a quarterly supplement to Esquire. GQ deciphers as Gentelemen's Quarterly. At the moment the magazine belongs to Condé Nast and is published in 18 countries all over the world.
International Man of the Year - Bradley Cooper.
Woman of the Year - Lara Stone.
Band of the Year - U2.
Writer of the Year - Keith Richards, the award to whom was presented by... Johnny Depp!
The full version can be seen right here.
If you are confused by the fact that you didn't know that Keith Richards was a writer, don't worry - it's just a biography.

On that note we finish our post and return to womenswear.

See you soon!

D & P

суббота, 10 сентября 2011 г.

Fashion Month #1. Beginning.

*Prada Mannequins are waiting for the new season's shows to start, sitting in the front row.

Our favourite time of the year has come. 4 weeks of new collections in the main fashion-capitals - New York, London, Paris and Milan. And a lot of fashion-related events.

Let's start the Spring/Summer 2012 season!

We are waiting not only for summer clothes made of light semi-transparent fabrics (on the runaway), but also for the editors, buyers and fashion-bloggers to rock the main fall trends (in the audience and in the streets).

And while we are forcing our way through hundreds of photos from the recent GQ awards party, Fashion's Night Out and first days of New York Fashion Week, you can watch half a dozen of new ad videos.

1. Ad campaign of Lanvin which was met with enthusiasm by all the critics (by Steven Meisel).

2. New video of Dior's perfume J'adore starring Charlize Theron (by Jean-Jacques Annaud).

3. A genuine film (the whole 105 seconds) which is promised to be continued - ad video of Trésor Midnight Rose (by Mario Testino).

4. Cheerful ad campaign of new Chanel nail polish.

5. Another work of Mario Testino (this time in collaboration with Christopher Bailey) that became a sensation long before its premiere (watch the video and you'll understand why) - an advertisement of a new Burberry fragrance - Burberry BODY. Starring Rosie Huntington-Whiteley.


See you soon!

D & P

воскресенье, 28 августа 2011 г.

Hermès vs. the World

Hello! We sincerely hope that on the last week of summer you'll remember everything that happened during past 3 months and you'll understand that it has been the best summer of your life.
And now... back to fashion! :)

Recently we came up with an idea that the most frequent piece of advice given to people by friends, family, books, movies, tv-psychoanalysts, pseudo-psychoanalysts and regular psychoanalysts is: "Stay true to yourself. Don't forget about your purpose. Follow your own path". The same advice is often addressed to fashion-houses. But in that case it usually sounds like: "Go back to your DNA. Go back to your source!". And it's translated like: "Do what you do best". This particular idea became a burden in a brilliant Wall Street Journal article about Hermès fashion-house - The Battle for Hermès by Dana Thomas. Those of you who have spare 30 minutes and English level high enough to understand all the subtleties of corporate top-management, make yourself a cup of tea and read the article. For the rest of you - highlights:

1. Hermès headquarters on Faubourg Saint-Honoré Street in Paris is the best office on Earth (yes! we love the first paragraphs of fashion-themed articles for their complex sentences and extreme picturesqueness).
2. The absolute majority of Hermès goods is produced in France by French craftsmen from raw materials obtained in France or in foreign countries under the direct control of Hermès employees (example from the article - Hermès Brazilian farm producing silk fibres for the company).
3. Financial indicators are at a very high level - sales grew by 25% in 2010.
4. Hermès is a family business. All along its existence it was managed by people with different family names but with the same family tree (cousins, daughters' husbands etc.).
5. Hermès is trying to stand out by calling itself not a fashion-house but a house of craftsmanship with 174-years history and a bunch of traditions (for example, printing of a 90x90 cm silk scarf takes whole 15 hours and the technique is very similar to the one used 74 years ago when the Hermès silk business started).
6. Hermès is at war with LVMH. This war is desperate. LVMH wants to buy Hermès stock and barrel, Hermès resists. One day the family will lose (it's the mood of the article, the family and LVMH) but not in the near future.So, is it right for Hermès to fight fashion-giant LVMH? Maybe it'll be better to have a deal and make a renovation of family-estate and pay for the education of all descendants?
To answer this question let's use our time machine (yep! that blue box in the corner :) ) and go to January 2011... and let's quote Forbes article "Master of the Brand" by Susan Adams and Hannah Elliott which is about Bernard Arnault: "He's got an energy that's just amazing", "He is battle-hardened from many corporate fights. He has put in place a creative management group that thinks long term", "I see myself as an ambassador of French heritage and French culture", "...as Arnault cultural adviser Jean-Paul Claverie has described it...", "Arnault's role as global arbiter of taste", and last but not least quote by Anna Wintour: "I think he's pretty much unstoppable". The moral of the story: the enemy is strong and will not retreat. He will wait for a money-based conflict between the family-members and then he will be ready to buy the company.But does this mean that Hermès should wave the white Birkin? Quite the contrary! If the fashion industry turns into a game of chess between Bernard Arnault with his LVMH and François Pinault with his PPR (Pinault-Printemps-Redoute), the fashion itself will at first become a bonus to the enterntainment industry and then will disappear at all (due to strong competition fashion-companies will start to produce everything at the same time). Just those very brands - independent and proud - warm up that melting pot which journalists call fashion. Those brands do not let fashion-giants relax and extend Arnault's work hours. Is it bad? No! The man is full of energy! It's definitely good for him!

That's why we're on Hermès side.

D & P



вторник, 5 июля 2011 г.

Tuesday of Trends


Trend is not only about patterns or skirt's length which are considered fashionable this season. It is also about those who are challenged by designers to represent the brand. This season fashion world chose the youth policy.

Recently we were looking through May Nylon and we found there Chloë Moretz. Then, while we were reading American Vogue, also May, we saw a fashion shoot in Chateau Marmont where Natalia Vodianova organized a pyjamas party with Hailee Steinfeld, Elle Fanning and Chloë Moretz. We were also scrolling through fashion news on the Internet and... Hailee Steinfeld is the new face of Miu Miu campaign. Elle Fanning, 13 years old, is the new face of Marc by Marc Jacobs. Surprised? No. Impressed? Yes!

1. Hailee Steinfeld, 14: Oscar's award nominee for "True Grit"
Miu Miu AW 2011/2012 by Bruce Weber



*You can see the rest of the photos on the official site

2. Elle Fanning, 13: Big roles: "Somewhere", "Super 8".
Marc by Marc Jacobs AW 2011/2012 by Juergen Teller


And here is a big editorial for Marie Claire

3. Chloë Moretz, 14: Roles in "Kick Ass" and "Let Me In".
Photoshoot for Nylon, May 2011 by Jennifer Rocholl



And now look at the photos, formulate your opinion on young Hollywood trio and comment!

понедельник, 4 июля 2011 г.

"No more than 300 clients". Christian Dior. 1947

Yes, we're talking about Christian Dior and his opinion about the quantity of haute couture clients. 300 - it is precisely the number of Dior clients at the beginning of his work. In Janie Samet's book (We recommend!!!) there is a detailed description how this number grew to 3000 clients and how Dior opened branches all over the world. Today haute couture designers can only dream about such numerous group of consumers. Haute couture is dying, making way for pret-a-porter which in its turn changes into ready to wear. But as long as there is monarchy, aristocracy, diplomacy and Chinese millionaires haute couture has a weak but stable source of income. Moreover, haute couture has several image functions - drawing attention, showing the craftsmanship of a fashion house, demonstrating the ultimate achievements of the industry.

So, the Haute Couture week AW 2011/2012 is now taking place in Paris. Today the 'Christian Dior's collection was shown to the public. It was created by Bill Gaytten and Susanna Venegas. The representatives of the house told that Bill wouldn't become the successor of John Galliano. Yes, it's difficult to find somebody to replace him. Maybe that's the reason why this particular collection was like the first Valentino collection after the resignation of Garavani - muddled and a bit confusing.

Now you can watch the video and see the details: (photos by Vogue.co.uk)


*Click on the image to enlarge it

See you soon!

MODEL Monday

Hi! We survived exams, disappointments in fashion industry, tiredness, first summer heat, and then we stopped whining and complaining and wrote a post.

We've been waiting for the event, which is the subject of today's post, for several months - since February 2011, when a huge diamond sparkled for the first time on supermodel's finger and reps of both sides - Kate's and The Kills guitarist's Jamie Hince - confirmed the engagement rumours. Last weekend (from Friday July 1st to Sunday July 3rd) runaway star and British rock star tied the knot in the Cotswolds, UK. The guest list was impressive: Karl Lagerfeld, Daphne Guinness, Emmanuelle Alt, Carine Roitfeld, Anna Wintour, Stefano Pilati (who handled his job - suits for the groom and for his 'best woman' The Kills vocalist Alison Mosshart - amazingly well), Marc Jacobs, Mario Testino, Lara Stone, Jude Law and other A-list guests. Let's not forget about Jefferson Hack, EIC of Dazed&Confused, Kate's ex-boyfriend, father of her daughter Lila Grace, he also attended the ceremony. Scandalous and unpopular particularly this season John Galliano created the wedding dress (attended the ceremony as well, despite the displease of the fashion world with his recent behaviour). We have to admit that we love Kate's dress and we are very happy that she didn't follow the advice of British Vogue's EIC and didn't choose Alexander McQueen, because the main reason we love fashion is its variety.

During the festivities Kate also wore a full-length dress, a mini-dress and a suit by Stella McCartney, who was among the guests as well.
You can see more photos from the event @ Vogue.co.uk:

And a bit of Cotswolds:

Let's wish the newlyweds a long and happy life together!

PS: several guests had to leave the celebration early because of another big summer wedding - the one of Monaco's Prince Albert II and Charlene Wittstock. We'll talk about it soon.

And now... the main question: the wedding dress - YAY or NAY?